Tag Archives: travel

Year Abroad in Syria – Day #5

02/09/08

Day 5

Day 5 and I am feeling a lot better now. Today was quite productive. I found a place to stay for at least the next few months in the Christian district just Southeast of the Old City, in a town called Jaramana. The arrangement I have with the Arab students I am sharing the house with is quite interesting to say the least. There are only two bedrooms in the house. I shall be staying in one, the larger of the two, while the other four will be sharing the other, because they cannot afford to share my room. It creates what feels like quite a class difference, as if I am the lord of the house and they are my servants. They have even offered to cook for me. So like I said, a pretty interesting situation. But they are more than happy to have me and have actually told me that this place is much better than their last. The rent comes to 90 GBP a month, including water, electricity, satellite TV with over 200 channels, a fridge, bed, wardrobe and fans. It also seems very safe, as I will have both a key to the apartment and a separate key to my room and then lockable storage space, although I really have no reason to be concerned about theft in Damascus because, from my experience so far, it is one of the safest places in the world.

I had another interesting experience today. Just for fun I decided to visit a small school in the Christian District that teaches English and I sat in on one of their classes. The whole class was taught in English – no one spoke a single word of Arabic. It was taught in an American accent because the teacher had studied at the American University in Kuwait. I asked the head teacher what he thought of this and he said he preferred the British accent, because it is a little easier to understand. The class included some examples of radio and television commercials and also a couple pop songs and actually reminded me a lot of my classes on the Egyptian dialect in Durham. I left them my details and they said they would contact me if they needed any help – so one day I might teach a bit of English while I am here – we’ll see! In any case, I said I would come back to say hello and see how the students are progressing.

I went to the Souk again yesterday and came across some very interesting finds. A few shops are selling what appear to be genuine American half-dollars from various dates ranging from 1859 all the way back to 1795! For those who don’t know, these are worth a lot of money and sometimes go for thousands of dollars on Ebay. So I shall see what kind of a bargain I can fetch and maybe make a little profit. I discovered the reason why there are so few Arabs selling items on Ebay. It is because it is much harder over here for the average Arab to get a credit card of some kind, which will be accepted by Ebay. Hence the lack of competition and the high prices of Arabic goods online. I also stumbled across another interesting item. This time a sheathed WWI bayonet, probably American, with the date 1907 inscribed on the blade. That was selling for 20 GBP at the most (without some haggling) and so I am going to research just how much that would sell for. Looking around for these hidden treasures is a lot of fun – I shall keep you updated on my discoveries!

Nothing much else to report for the time being. I shall write again soon, in shah allah.

Year Abroad in Syria – Day #4

01/09/08

Day 4

Day four in the Old Damascus house! I have had quite a time since last I wrote. Yesterday was absolutely terrible! I spent the whole day in bed after catching the notorious “Damascus Stomach”. Fortunately, with enough medicine and rest, it didn’t last for more than a day, although I still feel a little off. The Damascus Stomach affects pretty much every visitor at some point, when they are still adjusting to the food. It arises from the poor preparation and handling of food. I think it was the pizza I had two nights ago – I don’t think I shall go there again! Just thinking about it makes me ill. The food here takes a lot of getting used to. Today I spotted a KFC, so maybe I shall eat there at some point to take a rest from all the Eastern food.

Today I am writing from a restaurant called “Ornina” that has free WiFi internet. I really hit the jackpot when I found this place, because the only alternative is the internet cafes, where you have to pay of course. I am yet to see, however, if I can get them to let me access Facebook. You usually have to ask at the internet cafes and they may not be so generous here.

Today I went to the university and collected various bits of paperwork and found out that I have my entrance exam Thursday 11th Sept. I also went to the British Embassy, but they can’t see me until the 16th Sept, which is quite annoying, but fortunately the university understands the situation and I can start classes before I have the paperwork from the embassy. Also today I went to the clinic and had an AIDS test and I have to collect the results tomorrow – fingers crossed (just kidding!)

I am very close to finding a more permanent place in Damascus. It will most likely be in the Christian district in the Eastern part of Damascus, sharing with 4 Arabs, who are students at the University of Damascus. It has actually worked out really well, because this way I shall be surrounded by Arabs of my own age, constantly speaking and teaching me Arabic, which has some advantages to simply living with a Syrian family. We will then also share a bus down to the university, which will take maybe 20 minutes. I am not sure how much my room will cost at the moment, but it will probably be around 10,000 Syrian Pounds a month, which is around 100 GBP. My Arab friend in Damascus, called Simon, will show me the house he found for us and I’ll see if it is worth it. He said it would come with a fridge, Satellite TV and maybe even air-conditioning – which is pretty much essential here, believe me! I am quite eager to leave the youth hostel I am staying at right now, because it is always so busy and there are always so many students from across the world staying up really late and talking really loudly in the courtyard outside of my room, sometimes until 1 or 2 in the morning! One of them is particularly loud – this one Iranian girl from Switzerland – not quite as pleasant as some other Iranians I have met in my lifetime. In fact, Iranian girls in my experience are very nice indeed!

Speaking of the heat, it is just ridiculously hot! I mean, really! Coming into a cool restaurant like this and drinking ice-cold water after being in the heat is pure heaven! Then today is, of course, the first day of Ramadan! So it is very difficult to drink anything outside without offending anyone. Today I had a Mountain Dew (just like the one Uncle Jim showed us), but I first hid myself in a room at the university so no one would see! It’s not so bad in the Christian district, however, where you do see people drinking and eating.

Here is a little bit for Dad – today I saw a Citroen GS and thought of you. I also saw that same Citroen that I have a photo of from last time I was here – it is still sitting in the same spot.

Year Abroad in Syria – Day #1

29/08/08

Day 1

I am now in Damascus, my new home away from home! So far everything has gone very well and there have been no problems. In fact, I ran in to some luck at the airport when just by chance I overheard someone say they were going to the ‘Damascus Hostel’, where I am staying at the moment. It was a guy from Sweden, here to work at the Swedish embassy. So we shared a taxi to the city and then a room at the hostel, splitting the cost of both in the process.

The weather here has been really hot, which isn’t too surprising since I am in the Middle East! Today I think it was 40 degrees C and right now in the cool of the evening it is down to 36. I have been looking around for some sun cream as I think I will be needing a lot!

I took a walk down the Souk (market place) but there was hardly anything going on because it is a Friday. The same will be for tomorrow, then things will start up again on Sunday. Most of the shops that are open today are run by Christians.

This is only my first day and I have already started to make some friends. Making friends here is much like a snowball effect, because you meet one person and then they introduce you to another who introduces you to another …etc. One man, who I bought my phone from, called Majid, has agreed to help me find a family to stay with. I think I would prefer that, even though it restricts your independence a little, because it is supposed to be better for your Arabic and would also be a great way to learn more about how a typical family lives in Damascus.

In the meantime, I shall be staying for a week at the Damascus Hostel, which is the same place I stayed last time I was here over the Easter holidays. They are extremely friendly there and speak fluent English, which has helped in getting settled in without too much hassle. The room I am staying in this time is air-conditioned, which really makes a huge difference. They have made a lot of improvements since last I stayed there. The hostel is also in the Christian district, where I hope to find a place, so it is a good base of operations, so to speak, for finding a more permanent location to live.

Because it’s the weekend, I can’t get any kind of paperwork done with the University or British embassy, so the next couple of days I shall just be relaxing and enjoying the peaceful Damascene lifestyle. I sampled some more Syrian food today at a restaurant called ‘Narcissus Palace’.

Sign at the entrance to the restaurant "Narcissus Palace"

The most interesting experience I had there was when, all of sudden, two small pigeons flew onto my table and one of them decided to sit on my plate of mixed nuts and help himself to some!

A pigeon on my table!

The most remarkable thing was how this was taken for granted and none of the staff made any effort to get rid of the birds even though they kept coming back for more food!

Overnight at a Bedouin camp, Jordan

Just before sunset in the desert, Jordan

Desert beetle in Jordan

Camels roaming in the desert, Jordan

Volleyball with the Bedouin in Jordan!

“Lawrence’s Spring” in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Traveling through the desert in Jordan